Currently in the process of working out which does to breed so should have more information on litters in August. I will be closing my wait list on 1st August. Please note by going on my wait list now does not mean you will definitely be getting kittens from the next lot of litters.
I’m trying to keep my wait list manageable at the moment so that people aren’t waiting longer than 5 months but of course things can change. Which is why I’m opening and closing my list at different times. The next time it’s likely to reopen will be for a very short time late September or early October and then it will close again till January.
A rattery that maintains high standards of breeding can apply for stud registration with the NFRS when they have earned the required awards. The name the rattery is registered by is then refered to as its studname.
Sad news Carrie kittens did not make it. So now looks likely that all the kittens will be homed from the current wait list. There is an small chance that some may be available as I have had some people not reply to emails.
Next litter planned after these has been brought forward an bit planned for Late April/Early May with homing around end of June. These are likely to be Russian Blue Agouti and British Blue.
An lot of rat owners would love more rats but worry that they won’t get on with the their current rats. Young rats are the easiest rats to introduce to each other. If you have an old rat it’s better to get 2 young rats than an rat of the same age. The old rat will not feel threatened by the young ones and having younger rats around can make the old one more active.
Even if you already have rats you should not get an single young rat the young rat will be scared of the new place they are going to and the introduction will be a lot worse for them. Also if all the rats are older than them they will not have anyone of the same age to play with. Just think if you go to an new place by yourself it’s very scary but if you go with an friend it’s a lot better.
Rats do not have to be related to get on you do not have to get siblings. I often have 2 litters at an time in order for new owners to have 2 totally different looking rats. Male rats can live together.
Rats like people may not always get on. But always go with the no blood no fowl rule. As long as they no blood they should not be made to stop fighting. Pinning of each other, boxing and screaming at each other is quite normal. Baby rats often scream their heads off and the other rats have not even gone near them. They can be big drama queens.
Things that don’t work and that can make things worse.
Putting cages next to each other. (this winds the rats up they can smell the other rat but not get near to them which can make the intro later worse.)
Vanilla estrate/washing them (you can not hide they smell the other rat will still smell it and putting it on or washing them is very stressful.
Putting them in an large cage/with hides in. (the rats become territorial and fight more trying to protect an big space. They also hide away not wanting to get to know each other.)
The Best way
Their is various ways to do intros but I always use the carrier method. I’ve been doing it for years and it’s always worked only one time it has not and then I had that lone boy neatured and once recovered did an carrier intro again and it worked fine.
Jemma has done an great article on how to do it already personally I don’t put in do an neutral meeting first.
It’s often assumed anyone who’s an hobby breeder is good that is not the case and often some can be as bad as rodent mills. Breeding rats well is not an profitable business unless you cut some corners. These breeders are often called back yard breeders.
Pet shops get there rats from rodent mills there often say they get them from breeders this is their way of hiding that it’s an rodent farm but no good breeder will sell rats to an pet shop as they want to keep track of how their rat is doing and pet shops don’t do this.
Please get worried if they aren’t registered with NFRS. Anyone who doesn’t want to at least be on the breeders list normally means they are trying to hide things. Also worry if they keep the date of birth of they litters quite, breed hairless (which are banned from showing by NFRS due to heath issues and I also know of no good breeder that breeds them), Hide how they keep there rats, don’t make it clear if they cull or not. Anyone selling kittens before 6 weeks is an really worry. Most good rat breeders I know wait till about 7 weeks. Each litter is different and you have to see how they are doing I once homed an litter at 9 weeks because there were an few runts in the litter and I didn’t think they had grown enough. NFRS recommend minimum of 6 weeks before being rehomed. Just because an rat is weaned does not mean it’s ready. An rat breeder should have enough spare cages that they can spilit the boys and girls when they get to about 4 and half weeks. From that time it is possible for them to breed. Check which food the rat breeder feeds and the bedding they use. No good rat breeder feeds nuggets uses saw dust or keeps they adults in tanks. Also anyone willing to home out single rats doesn’t understand how an rat should be kept.
Most good rat breeders will have another job as you can’t make a living being an hobby breeder. Anyone breeding more than one type of animal is also an worry.
If an breeder doesn’t question you about how your going to keep the rats or doesn’t want to be kept up to date on how they are doing I would worry about this as well.
People also get confused about a few things thinking anyone who keeps there rats in an shed or out house does not care about their rats or in hutches. These are in fact some of the best breeders I know. It’s an great idea to do this as it makes quarantining of animals easier with separate air space.
It’s important to question the breeder yourself and find out about them also see what they ask of you on any application forms.
If I don’t have any kittens available I will always be able to recommend an good breeder to you.