Wait list is open for bucks and does it will estimated to close again on 20th November for the Christmas period.
Currently in the process of working out which does to breed so should have more information on litters in August. I will be closing my wait list on 1st August. Please note by going on my wait list now does not mean you will definitely be getting kittens from the next lot of litters.
I’m trying to keep my wait list manageable at the moment so that people aren’t waiting longer than 5 months but of course things can change. Which is why I’m opening and closing my list at different times. The next time it’s likely to reopen will be for a very short time late September or early October and then it will close again till January.
I have reopened the wait list please make sure to fully fill in the application form you can download from this page.
Then email it to firstname.lastname@example.org
If you currently on the wait list and you have changed your mind of variety or sex of rats you are wanting please get in touch to update your details.
Please keep a eye on the site as the wait list will soon be fully opening again.
I am very proud of all my rats that have helped me be get to Stud and also very happy with how they are as pets as well which is most important to me.
What is a Studname information from NFRS.
What is a studname?
A rattery that maintains high standards of breeding can apply for stud registration with the NFRS when they have earned the required awards. The name the rattery is registered by is then refered to as its studname.
Fill in the application form here
Next litter planned after these has been brought forward an bit planned for Late April/Early May with homing around end of June. These are likely to be Russian Blue Agouti and British Blue.
Even if you already have rats you should not get an single young rat the young rat will be scared of the new place they are going to and the introduction will be a lot worse for them. Also if all the rats are older than them they will not have anyone of the same age to play with. Just think if you go to an new place by yourself it’s very scary but if you go with an friend it’s a lot better.
Rats do not have to be related to get on you do not have to get siblings. I often have 2 litters at an time in order for new owners to have 2 totally different looking rats. Male rats can live together.
Rats like people may not always get on. But always go with the no blood no fowl rule. As long as they no blood they should not be made to stop fighting. Pinning of each other, boxing and screaming at each other is quite normal. Baby rats often scream their heads off and the other rats have not even gone near them. They can be big drama queens.
Things that don’t work and that can make things worse.
- Putting cages next to each other. (this winds the rats up they can smell the other rat but not get near to them which can make the intro later worse.)
- Vanilla estrate/washing them (you can not hide they smell the other rat will still smell it and putting it on or washing them is very stressful.
- Putting them in an large cage/with hides in. (the rats become territorial and fight more trying to protect an big space. They also hide away not wanting to get to know each other.)
The Best way
Their is various ways to do intros but I always use the carrier method. I’ve been doing it for years and it’s always worked only one time it has not and then I had that lone boy neatured and once recovered did an carrier intro again and it worked fine.
Jemma has done an great article on how to do it already personally I don’t put in do an neutral meeting first.